BBM MAGAZİNE Nisan 63 - April 63

BBM • APRIL - NİSAN 2023 42 COVER STORY • KAPAK DOSYASI In Anatolian villages, ovens are lit, stoves fume, hearts meet, dough is kneaded and rolled out. The food of winter begin to be prepared in the cellar of autumn. Autumn has been the time of planting in Anatolia for thousands of years. You sow hopes, you sow seeds. The bread map of autumn smells of gloom, sepa- ration is in the wind. Poets seek solace in poetry, line by line, preparations for migration begin. The bread of the homeland is missed, and whenever the table is set, gloom is remembered. Each of them including tırnaklı, cooked in ash, thrown into the furnace, put on a sheet, cooked in a tandoor, leavened/unleav- ened, thin/thick, is a treasure. Every region has a trademark, whether you look at its trees or its soil or ask for a slice of bread. Each slice tells the craftsman- ship of thousands of masters. Each one of its pores, moisture, shell thickness and color is another experiment defying the sci- entific studies of the whole world. Do you think that 7 regions are 7 breads? The number of bread in Anatolia is infinite. Memories of thousands of years are cooked in neighborhood bakeries. The spoils of nature releases their temper to Anatolian breads, those who knead the dough accept the endless treats of nature and give life to the bread. The sorrow of the geography, which the seeds keep secret, turns into the art of taste with slices of bread. Spring festival is celebrated with the dew falling on leaves in Anatolia. The taste of life is transferred to bread with dew yeast. The bread of Anatolia is nurtured by Rumi’s tolerance, its crumbs give life to the wolf and the cooked food, their crumbs give life to the wildlife. Breads kneaded with tail fat are also Ana- tolian. Bread types kneaded with tail fat, Ninda Gurra inherited from the Hittites, who protected their babies with black cumin, and Gobit, which is popular among mechanics are all Anatolian. Sac, pilita and tandoor belong to us. Let’s enjoy all. gurbete, ana yurdunun ekmeği özlenir ne zaman sofra ku- rulsa o zaman gam düşer belleğe. Tırnaklısı, külde pişeni, fırına atılanı, saca konulanı, tandır- da dem alanı, mayalı mayasız, ince kalın her biri mücevherin ta kendisi. Her bölgenin bir alametifarikası vardır, ister ağaçlarına ba- kın, ister toprağına isterseniz bir dilim ekmek isteyin. Her bir dilim binlerce ustanın zanaatkârlığını anlatır. Gözenekleri, nemi, kabuk kalınlığı, rengi tüm dünyanın bilimsel çalışma- larına meydan okurcasına her biri başka bir deney. Sanır mısınız ki 7 bölge 7 ekmektir, Anadolu’da ekmeğin sayısı sonsuz, binlerce yılın hatıraları pişer mahalle fırınlarında. Doğanın ganimetleri Ana- dolu ekmeklerine huyunu suyunu bırakır, hamuru yoğuranlar doğanın son- suz ikramlarını alır kabul eder, ekmeğe can verir. Tohumların sır gibi sak- ladığı coğrafyanın kederi ekmek dilimleriyle tat sana- tına dönüşür. Bahar bayramı yaprakların üzerine düşen çiğle kutlanır Anadolu’da. Çiğ mayasıyla hayatın tadı tuzu ekmeğe aktarılır. Anadolu’nun ekmekleri Mevlana’nın hoşgörüsüyle besle- nir, kırıntıları kurda kuşa pişmiş aşa can verir. Kuyruk yağıyla yoğrulan ekmekler de Anadolu’dur, çörek otuyla bebekle- rini koruyan Hitiler’den kalma Ninda Gurra’da, Sanayi’de yenen Gobit te. Sac da bizim, pilita da tandır da, hadi afiyetle.